Meet Nancy Lefevre, Head of Design

Meet Nancy Lefevre, Head of Design

Nancy welcomes me to the beating heart of the company: the design department, where a new collection is born each season. "It's always packed here; a clean desk policy isn't a given in the styling department," she laughs apologetically. Mood boards hang on the walls, a work in progress, from abstract concepts, carefully chosen from trend agencies, to more concrete interpretations. On the other side hang all the sketches and corresponding fabric swatches. Buttons are scattered across the tables. In the space behind the creative studio, it's a hive of activity: prototypes are being stitched and tested. Not all prototypes make it to the finish line. Designing is an intensive process, a process of creating and making choices, that much is clear.

From the classroom to Dallas

I started working for the company in 1990, at the age of 23. Before that, I had trained as a teacher, but I only taught for one year. Fashion had always been my passion, somewhat influenced by my mother, a very fashion-conscious woman who closely followed the latest trends. Through a mutual friend, I learned about a vacancy at Marie Méro, then still Rosie's. I was hired and was able to start working in Brussels, in our showroom at Fashion Gardens. After the birth of my son, I wanted to work closer to home. After all, I live in Ostend.

So, a job in Aalter was ideal. Paula was looking for an assistant at the time, and for me, this creative job was a godsend. My sales experience was a plus. When you create a collection, it's important to know your target audience. I fell into the role quite quickly: I went along to the trade fairs, helped choose fabrics, and immersed myself in the structure of the collection.

Paula taught me all facets of the job; we made a great team. Now I work with Steven; we share the same passion. I've had some fantastic years with Paula, but it's also great to work with the new generation. You sense that fresh energy and that drive for innovation that aligns with the current zeitgeist. These new impulses keep me sharp and young.

Even after work, I'm constantly focused on my job. When I travel or walk around town, I look at the shops and the people. Everything inspires me, from Instagram and magazines to travel. However, I never let myself get overwhelmed by that constant influx of information. Chaos is not my thing. This job requires a lot of structure, by the way. I love that combination of creativity and structure. You have to meet tight deadlines. Your prototypes have to be ready for production in time; you can't lose sight of a single piece. It's a giant puzzle where every piece has to fit together at the end.
Every season feels like a test, even after all these years. You have to constantly reinvent yourself and engage your customers. Presenting a collection always brings a certain amount of stress ! Of course, we don't make the decision alone: ​​Steven and I are surrounded by a fantastic team. We make the decisions together. If there's no consensus on a particular theme or piece, we let it go and start over. We work from our gut, now more than ever before.

Princess Astrid also seeks advice from Nancy every season when selecting her outfits.


From color to collection

We start with a color palette around which we build themes. We consult various trend agencies and specialized platforms to find out what the new trend colors are. Based on this, we create a mood board and begin making a selection. However, we don't slavishly adopt the trend colors; we make choices based on our DNA. After choosing the colors, we start selecting fabrics and designing the styles. The two go hand in hand: not every fabric drapes the same way, and you have to find the right style for each fabric. The knitwear, which is always present in the collection, also has to fit into the overall look. The "accessories" are equally important. Everything has to be in harmony.
We almost never buy ready-made prints; we customize the color and sometimes even the pattern. All fabrics are subject to strict quality standards . Only when they have passed all tests can they be ordered and produced.

We have a toolboard that provides a complete overview. The collection must be well-balanced: you need jeans and knitwear, skirts and trousers, dresses and tops, blazers and jackets. The collection must be complete and the pieces must be compatible with each other. When creating the pieces, we also consider that a garment in both size 36 and size 48 should make a woman beautiful. A woman wearing size 44 also wants to feel sexy in a dress with a plunging back or a beautiful neckline. In recent seasons, we've accelerated our innovation efforts. We've noticed that creative pieces are the fastest to sell. This motivates us to continue in the same direction. We receive a lot of feedback from our Fashion Advisors, which we compile and explore for ourselves.

Winter 21-22: warm tones and soft fabrics

At the time of this report, the 2021-2022 winter collection is already in the showroom. The warm hues, from winter pastels to earthy tones, are striking. Soft materials predominate, from velvet to alpaca. Winter is Nancy's favorite season. I love soft, warm materials like mohair and alpaca. Brown is the trend color for this winter, and we've adapted it by choosing brown with a warm, reddish glow. We've also worked with fresh colors, including many warm winter pastels, such as ice blue with a warm undertone. There are also moss green, bright red, and a touch of fluorescent. The patterns are diverse, from florals, a cock's-foot and herringbone pattern, a tapestry print, to animal prints—a classic that always works and flatters many people. Natural fabrics make up the lion's share of the collection, but there are also pleated skirts in eco-leather. Wherever possible, we opt for the eco-friendly version of the fabric. Influenced by the lockdown, we've released casual trouser suits consisting of trousers and a matching blouse. Even the most relaxed silhouettes remain elegant with us. Scarves and belts complete the look.

Nancy is also the face of our Facebook Live sessions. She's eager to surprise you again this spring with our beautiful collection.
Mark your calendars with a red dot for the following dates: February 17, 2022 – March 10, 2022 – March 30, 2022, each at 6:30 PM. See you on Facebook!